The Phantom Rickshaw and other Tales/My own True Ghost Story

As you lift the pin stack with torque applied, eventually its cut will reach the shear line, allowing the plug to turn; the top pin will then be completely trapped in the shell, while the bottom pin stays in the plug, no longer held down by spring pressure. Eventually, you'll reach a point where the plug will turn ever so slightly and the pin will not go up any farther. Straight pool, also known as 14.1 continuous, is a game where players must pocket a set number of balls to reach a predetermined score. Some versions only allow players to place the ball behind the line on the table, what is billiards often called the head line or baulk line. I have detailed many of the different types of billiards below - be sure to give some of the videos a watch, this way you can really appreciate at the skill some of these players possess. It is very important when you do the exercises that you not move on to the next until you have completely and comfortably mastered the exercise you're working on.

See Figures 3 and 4. Once you're comfortable with the AR1 keyway, move on to the "Ilco SX" keyway locks and repeat the exercise. Move your fingers close to the keyway as you do this. This keyway is a bit more "open" (it's intended to allow several different key profiles to fit in it), and so requires the use of a larger pick than the Arrow AR1 keyway does. Some locks will open both clockwise and counterclockwise, but many will only open when turned a particular way, depending on the configuration of the underlying locking mechanism. As a general rule, locks mounted on the left side of a door open clockwise, while locks on the right side of a door open counterclockwise. If you release pressure with your pick while still applying torque, the bottom pin will drop freely, and will not have any spring pressure if you try to push it back up. I usually find that the very top of the plug, directly in front of the pins, to be a good place to apply torque, but you have to be careful that the tool doesn't touch the front-most pin.

Several positions are possible; here a vertically-oriented torque tool is used at the top of the keyway. Try each of your torque tools in the lock. Go back to the "Arrow AR1" keyway lock board and find the one pin lock. Now, while continuing to apply torque, insert your pick and find and slowly lift the pin stack. It won't turn, of course, because the cut of the (single) pin stack is still below the shear line and its top pin is preventing the plug from rotating. Using the five or six pin lock, find a pick that lets you locate and lift each pin across its full range of motion without disturbing adjacent pins too much. First count them, making sure you find all five (or six). Find the board with the six "Arrow AR1" keyway locks. Find the ward directly under the pins and pivot the shaft of the pick at the font of the keyway.

You'll probably find the large hook or deep curve pick works well here. This pick is a LAB double-ended "hook/rake" (held for use with the hook end). You'll probably end up deciding that the small Peterson hook works best, but experiment with all the picks. The widow sat down at one end of this sofa, and the major perched himself at the other, looking even redder than usual, and puffing out his chest and frowning, as was his custom upon critical occasions. As with pin tumbler locks, because the levers, gates, and fence are slightly out of alignment, it is usually possible to raise and pick the levers one at time. A few pin tumbler lock products orient the key horizontally in the keyway and use a flat key bitted with variable-depth holes ("dimples") rather than the cuts used for the familiar "sawtooth" key. This keyway is common in commercial and residential locks in the US, and is close in shape and size to a number of other common keyways, including that used by Kwikset, a very popular (and easily defeated) line of US residential locks. It is usually possible to insert the torque tool at either the top or bottom part of the keyway.